Monday, April 17, 2023

Bordeaux Part 2

 The boat stopped at Bourg. We walked around the town. A small town with a patisserie and ruins of a fort.









Next stop was Blaye. This is a good size town dominated by the Citadel of Blaye https://www.bbte.fr/patrimoine/visiter-citadelle-blaye/. We took a tour of the Citadel. The Citadel is large and has a hotel and some shops inside its walls. It also has some great views of the Gironde. Of course I found 2 excellent patisseries and a very good wine shop walking around the town. The nice part of the cruise was that the boat was docked in the center of the town and I could just wander around town.










I bought this wine and we drank it on the ship. No corkage/ no problem. The wine was good and very reasonable, around $14. Recently I have seen bordeaux wines at home from Blaye and Bourg that are very reasonably priced. You need to try these wines and see which ones you like. Many are not reviewed. Read the labels and buy wines from good recent vintages 2016, 2018, 2019. There are many different blends of different proportions Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Cabernet Franc.













Our room on the ship. Very tight quarters but had everything we wanted. The sliding glass door gave us access to fresh air and good views but we spent most of our time on the boat in the public lounge and open air top deck.




We went out on our own one evening. The cruise had a free excursion with wine tasting and dinner. The dinner was prepared by the ship's chef and the menu was beef again and boring. We decided to stay on the boat and go to dinner on our own in Bordeaux. Almost everyone left the boat at a docking near Pauillac for the free excursion. We were 2 of 8 people who stayed on the boat back to Bordeaux.
The boat concierge made reservations for us at a bistro in Chez Dupont https://www.chez-dupont.com/fr/la-table/  The food was very good. It was about $100 for 2 with a $35 bottle of wine.


Open ravioli. Very good.





Veal chop.
Duck 2 ways. It was really good.
Dessert.
We also met two  young women from Norway at the restaurant and had some great conversations. The evening was lots of fun and the meal was the best of the trip. They also recommended another restaurant Symbiose http://symbiose-bordeaux.com/ . We checked it out but did not eat there. It looks like a place to try, Very hip.

The big paid excursion of the cruise was a trip to St Julien. We spent the morning at a wine barrel maker. It was fascinating. Lots go into making barrels. The wood is extremely important. This make only uses 200 year old French oak. The oak and the barrels have an important role in how a wine tastes and is made.








We visited Leoville Poyferre after the barrel maker. Leoville Poyferre https://www.leoville-poyferre.fr/en/ is one of finest wineries in Bordeaux. We took a tour of the facilities and tasted some of their wines.
Vintages for sale. Their second wine is called Pavillion de Leoville Poyferre.










The wines we tasted. Bordeaux wineries tend to give tastings of older wines from vintages that were not the best like the 2008. However 20-16 and 2018 were both very good vintages.


We had an ok lunch at this restaurant. They served wine that was not too good. Never can understand how a restaurant located next to some of the greatest wineries in the world can serve ordinary wine.


On the way back we  stopped at Chateau Paloumey https://www.chateaupaloumey.com/en/ This is a smaller less regarded winery that makes good wine at reasonable prices. We tasted the same wine that was aged in different barrels - French oak/Slovakian oak. Interestingly they tasted completely different. Every thing about the wines was identical except the barrels.








Off the Paris at the Bordeaux train station. High speed trains get you to Paris in 2 hours. 




Arc de Triomphe


Entrance to the Louvre. The Louvre is now  taking reservations to enter. The lines were very long even with reservations.




Place de Concorde and the Eiffel Tower



One of our favorite spots in Paris, the Orangerie.https://www.musee-orangerie.fr/fr This was the original exhibiting place for Monet's Water Lilies. 2 rooms completely surround you with Water Lilies.















Entrance to the Orangerie. Note that the museums in Paris are free on the first Sunday of every month. Free is good but the crowds not so good.
I made dinner reservations months in advance at Baeta,https://restaurant-baieta-paris.fr/fr  a Michelin 1 star restaurant. Trendy, a young female chef and somewhat reasonably priced sounded like a good combo. However the restaurant was very plain, service awkward and the food so-so. No menu but they do ask about allergies. $100 plus $50 for wine. The wines were uninspired. We were treated with disdain which is unusual in our experience in Paris.



Appetizer/amuse bouche


Fried egg. See next picture.







Menu which was outside the restaurant.


The Seine.


Burnt Notre Dame.










An Irish pub in Paris.





We went to the Marmotten Monet Museum https://www.marmottan.fr/en/ We had never been. It is on  the outskirts on Paris near the Bois de Boulogne. The museum was delightful and lots on Monets. It is small and was not that crowded. Highly recommend. Metro and a short walk to get there.




o








We stayed at the Renaissance Arc De Triomphe https://www.marriott.com/en-us/hotels/parwg-renaissance-paris-arc-de-triomphe-hotel/overview/?scid=f2ae0541-1279-4f24-b197-a979c79310b0 It is our favorite hotel in Paris. Large rooms, great service and a great location. Not cheap.

We picked up this wine in a small grocery store in Paris for $5. I wanted to check the quality of cheap Bordeaux's. It was a good vintage, from a real place Cote de Bourg and the back label told about the owners so I bought it. The wine was good.

I have to stop in every patisserie that  I see so we tried this one in Paris. Very good stuff.




Bordeaux street scenes.

















There as a huge carnival in Bordeaux when we were there. Just like the Jersey shore but on steroids. Great food and rides and attractions.






Main plaza in Bordeaux.








Farmer's market on river bank in Bordeaux on a Saturday.










Another patisserie.





We enjoyed the trip. The more we think about the cruise, the better it becomes. Bordeaux is a fun place and with  the wine scene it is truly special. We bought some wine at the Chateau Valandraud tasting room in St. Emilion. Valandraud's winemaker is Jean-Luc Thunevin. It is easy to ship wine and you receive a 20% discount due to the VAT refund. Thunevin makes several wines. Clos Badon is a reasonably priced  wine that we love. If you see it in the US buy it. $35. The Merlot based wines of St Emilion have been a revelation to me recently. I had been concentrating on Left Bank Cabernet Sauvignon based wines over the last few years. The right bank St Emilion wines are relative bargains. St Emilion uses its own classification of wines which is updated every 10 years or so.

The important points to keep in mind:
Grand Cru on the label refers to the vineyard not the wine. There are many Grand Crus.
Grand Cru Classe are considered good wines.  71 wineries. Clos Badon is one.
Premier Grand Cru Classe are the best wines. There are 14 including Chateau Valandraud.
See this link for a very good description of the most recent classification. https://janeanson.com/st-emilion-2022-classification-crowns-new-right-bank-first-growth A  few of the best wineries have opted out of the classifications.

Enjoy! Maui updates coming soon.












Monday, January 16, 2023

Looking Back 2022 Wine

 2022

Interesting year for  food, wine and travel.

Wine- Random thoughts

Smoke and fires impacted wines in California and Oregon from the 2020 vintage. some top wines in  Napa Valley and the  Willamette Valley produced limited wines in 2020. Domaine Drouhin and Cliff Lede among them. Buyer beware of long term cellaring of 2020 wines from those regions. Smoke taint is a very complicated subject.

Wine writers of the year Eric Asimov of the NYT, Neil Martin of Vinous and Lettie Teague of the WSJ.

Wine publication change of note. Lisa Perotti Brown left the Wine Advocate. I never received any notice of the change. She was in charge of the publication. The Wine Advocate is still running on Robert Parker's name. Nor sure what they are all about today. One reviewer, Erin Brooks has been giving very inflated ratings to some California and Oregon wines.    

Wine trends to watch. Disgorgement dates on non-vintage sparkling wines. Without disgorgement dates how do you know how old the wine is? How do you know what wine is being reviewed. The Wine Spectator  does not give disgorgement dates yet they have a senior person in charge of reviewing sparkling wines.- Go figure. 

Alcohol content of wines. Due to global warming and some taste trends, the alcohol content of many wines(ABV) is quite high. I have seen wines at 16% abv. which is 33% more alcohol than most Champagnes.

 I currently subscribe to Vinous, Wine Spectator and Jeb Dunnock.   Just discontinued the Wine Advocate. Cellartracker is still my favorite software to track my wine. Vinous now has a cellar tracking service which I have not checked out yet.  

Prices of wine can really fluctuate and shipping from online purchases can be onerous.  A number of stores  have unlimited shipping for a set price which can be a good deal. Check out Gary's. the Wine Library and Wines.com although the price of wine on Wine.com can be exorbitant.   

I find that buying wine online allows you buy carefully and compare pricing for a wine.

I am getting a bit tired my enrollments in winery wine clubs. My inventory from these wineries keep growing and I find it slightly inhibiting to my buying new and different wines. 

Comic Relief- Found this review of a Champagne today-Laurel, bay leaf, lime bonbon and bergamot aromas. Fragrant freshness and a long spine of tingling minerality. Glittering four-cornered structure. Green and gold and steel. Incredibly mouth-watering, and then into an arrow of piercing triangularity on the finish. 

I really love wines from Bordeaux.

Wine area of the year -St Emilion

Wineries of the year:

Chateau Valandraud, ClosBadon and Virginie de Valandraud. All from St Emilion    and made by the same owner - Thunevin.

Municipal Wines for their experimentation and  willingness to try new types of wines.

Wines of the year. With links to Cellartracker  

2016 Kunin Pape Star


2019 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou


2016 Domaine Carneros Estate Brut Cuvee

2017 Virginie de Valandraud

2016 Clos Badon Thunevin

  2016 Château Valandraud                                                                                                                            


2010 Bodegas Muga Rioja Selección Especial

         2018 Keplinger Fuego y Mar

2016 Château Monbousquet

 2019 Denner Mother of Exiles 

Red

2010 Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape La C

2019 Potek Riesling Kick-on Ranch

  


2010 Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau

                      


2015 Domaine Drouhin Oregon Pinot Noir Louise

 


2015 La Massa Carla VI Parcel 6

2019 Drouhin Oregon Roserock Pinot Noir










Sunday, January 8, 2023

Bordeaux, Paris, Viking River Cruise Nov 2022, Part 1

Viking Bordeaux River Cruise ( Chateaux, Rivers and Wine)

 I am not a cruise person. I had never been on one until recently when we went on 7 night Viking river cruise that started and ended in Bordeaux. We had been to Bordeaux before and the cruise only sailed short distances each day. In addition Viking provided some good incentives like free airfare and free wine and drinks. We chose a French Balcony room which is very small but has a sliding glass door that opens to a railing. The room was comfortable and was well equipped. there was no reason to be in the room except to sleep so the room was fine. 

Viking provides a free excursion almost every day. We paid for 2 excursions. One was very good and the other was basically the free excursion with lunch. The lunches on both excursions were the weak points of the excursions.

The cruise was fine; everything was first class. The boat was spotless; the crew friendly and responsive. The food was good but not impressive. Being the food snob that I am, they could have done a much better job. The special dinner of the day was not really specific to the Bordeaux area. Desserts were meh( I brought my own to dinner a few times, no shortage of patisseries in France ) and the breads so-so. We had their silver spirits package(provided for free) and the wines were impressive. Any bottle under $50 on the wine list was free. There was very small markups so we drank some very good Bordeaux's. Champagne by the glass was included and they had rotating Champagnes including Veuve Cliquot. Also there is no corkage charge if you want to drink your own bottle of wine.



We booked the trip through Viking directly. Things worked well but a few things to know upfront. check your credit cards for their trip insurance benefits. Travel insurance is getting very expensive these days. We have 2 very good cards that provide very comprehensive trip benefits for free if you use the card for the travel. 

Most importantly we received "free" airfare from Viking. However I wanted to fly on United since I have status. We also were extending our trip 2 nights in Paris so I wanted the non stop United flight to Newark. If you want to control your air flights you pay Viking $100 - $150 per person for the privilege. In hindsight it was the best thing I could have done. If you let Viking book your flights they  can change your itinerary each week up to the week of your flight. On the cruise we heard awful stories from people with crazy flights. Orlando to Montreal to Amsterdam to Bordeaux. coming home 6 hour layovers in Boston to get to Philly. A number of people had luggage delayed a few days and some never saw their luggage.

Another thing is that the itinerary of the boat is flexible. 2 of our stops were changed due to river conditions and dock issues. We did not go to Cadillac and Pauillac. The don't really announce it and the excursions are adjusted but it just something to know. 

A few other things to note. Chateaux in the cruise name refers to the wine chateaux's in Bordeaux. We spoke with several people on the cruise who thought it referred to castles and they were disappointed with the cruise tours.

This cruise was definitely an older crowd and many were big time Viking cruise fans. Also despite the cruise going all through Bordeaux I did not meet any real wine aficionados. Most people just wanted to go on a Viking river cruise that they had not been on before. One final point, the cruise directors are great.


The boat.





Check this out. A floating dock.


Libourne

A really good food market in Libourne (indoors and out). The prices are cheap for the quality and variety. 








Check out the prices. Remember a kilo is 2.2 pounds.




St Emilion, a very upscale town with a number of very good wine shops.












We had lunch at this restaurant on one excursion. Very pretty place but food not to my taste. Main course was pot roast, ugh! 














We visited this winery Siaurac in Lalande de Pomerol. They make several wines The wines were ok. They tend to provide tastings of off vintages at Bordeaux wineries. It seems that the good stuff goes out of the area.















Stay tuned for part 2.