Sunday, August 18, 2019

London/Italy Part 3 Florence

Florence

We flew from London to Florence (Firenze). The Florence airport is not large and not many flights go there. We had to take a plane from London to Frankfort and then another flight to Florence.

We had booked an AirBnB apartment in Florence and our host had to meet us to let us in. Our flight was delayed an hour and communication was tough but he had tracked our flight and was waiting for us when we arrived. The apartment was a renovated studio 1 flight up in an old building that had a small elevator. The apartment was modern and had a small kitchen which was not very usable but we did not cook there. The apartment was 1/2 block from the Ponte Vecchio, a very old bridge and very centrally located. We paid about $200 per night.

Florence is very walkable and is a fantasy city of very old buildings filled with art treasures. The city is extremely crowded with tourists. The main sites are the Uffizi Gallery https://www.uffizi.it/en/the-uffizi and Galleria Dell'Accademia http://www.galleriaaccademiafirenze.beniculturali.it/servizi/. Getting into these museums is tough. You basically need reservations. Apparently many people pay alot to take private group tours of major sites these days. You can almost always book directly with the official site. Florence has a card that gets you in top most sites, FirenzeCard http://firenzecard.it/index.php?lang=en . You can call a number to make reservations for the Uffizi and Accademia before you leave on your trip. You can then buy the Firenze Card when you get to Florence. The card is not cheap, 85 Euros per person, but it gets you in everywhere and is easy to use. Give yourself at least an hour to go through all of the lines to get into these 2 museums, especially the Uffizi.

The Ponte Vecchio.


Our first dinner in Florence was at Cibreo Caffehttp://www.cibreo.com/en/ It was recommended by our AirBnB host. The food and ambiance were great. The chef runs several restaurants. The Caffe is casual but elegant and I would make reservations. There are price fixed meals at 40, 50 and 60 Euros. We had the 40 Euro meal and it was superb. The sides and appetizers  were served family style. The wines by the glass were very good. You just order your main courses, sit back  and let the food and fun begin.

Definitely one of the best meals that I have had in long time.

Note -- Many European restaurants have very good wines by the glass at very reasonable prices. I have found that it is much more fun to order wines by the glass in Europe so I can sample as many wines as possible.

Yogurt and tuna. It was interesting but I would not have it again.



 Appetizers -- Tripe, pate, beets, bread , etc. My first tripe; it was OK.

 The wine list. No wine over 10 E per glass. The wines were very good. 2015 and 2016 were great vintages in Tuscany.


 My main course. Florence is all about beef and tripe.
 My wife had the fish baked in aluminum foil.
 Asparagus, chick peas and whipped potatoes.
 The inside of the restaurant.
 Desserts, the meringue cake was awesome. Light with lots of flavor.
 The outside of the restaurant.
Scene in Florence.






Famous stuff in the Uffizi.











Palazzo Vecchio


A very famous David by Donatello  at the Bargello Museum http://www.museumsinflorence.com/musei/museum_of_bargello.html. Notice how it differs from Michelangelo's.
Michelangelo's David at the Accademia.


The Duomo. Really cool from the outside.
















We found this great wine bar very close to our apartment. Le Volpi e L’Uva. # 11 on the Eater 38   https://www.eater.com/maps/best-restaurants-florence-italy list of Florence. The bar is classic -small, a bar to sit at and a few outdoor tables. The wines were very reasonable and very good. They had an eclectic. The staff was great and they made us feel very comfortable. I find Eater to be a good website for finding restaurant in many cities.

Our snack turned out to be our dinner. Cheese, bread, some meats and wine.





















Michelangelo's David at the Accademia. One of the most impressive statues we have seen.









Medici Chapels.









Pitti Palace and Boboli Gardens






We had a bit of trouble finding a place to eat one night. The first 4 restaurants we tried required reservations and were very busy. We wanted Beefsteak Florentine so we finally settled on the a generic Osteria in a basement. The waiter was initially quite blase but we relaxed and went with the flow.

Beefsteak Florentine is served all over Florence. They have rules for it. It must be a porterhouse steak, minimum 2.5 pounds and cooked very rare. It was about $50 but easily serve 2. I love the dish and have been eating it all summer at home. Rub steak with olive oil, add salt and pepper and rub with fresh rosemary. Grill until you have it done to your liking but keep it very rare. Let the meat rest  and cut it 1 inch slices perpendicular to the bone. See below.

Instead of a Cabernet Sauvignon to drink with the Steak Florentine, drink a good Chianti Classico. You will surprised and impressed. The good 2015 and 2016 Chiantis have great fruit and lots of tannin and go great with steak.





The Ponte Vecchio at night.
Silly story. When I was a child we went to Montreal many times. Every bridge had a sign that said "Pont Bridge". I thought that every bridge in Montreal had the same name. Go figure.

On our third day in Florence we booked a wine tour. The tour was with Grape tours. https://www.tuscan-wine-tours.com/  It was the Elite Grand Cru tour and was very expensive at 250 Euros per person. My expectation were high and they were met. We had as small minivan with a driver/ Guide. Bernardo was our guide. He was personable, knowledgeable, a good driver and very disciplined as he had to pass on all of the great wine we tasted. There were 2 other couples on the tour so logistically things were a breeze.

Interestingly, Bernardo makes his own wine with several others and he thought the wine might be available at the wine bar -Le Volpi e L’Uva. I went back to the wine-bar the next day and they were out of it. Oh well.

The tour consisted of 3 winery visits and lunch. The wineries were La Massa, Poggio Scalette http://www.poggioscalette.it/eng/home.html and Vecchie Terre di Montefili. https://www.vecchieterredimontefili.com/en/. Each makes superb wines. Critics reviews are off the charts and we loved them as well.

We had private tours of the wineries and the tastings were very comprehensive.   Check out my detailed tasting notes at  https://www.cellartracker.com/event.asp?iEvent=41818&searchId=52FADD5B&UISource=list

2015 and 2016 are great vintages in Tuscany. I bought one top of the line bottle at each winery. I try to buy wines that are not available  at home. Each winery has wines that are available in the US. La Massa's La Massa s around $20 in NJ. Scalette Carbonaione is available in different vintages from $32 to $50. Montefili's Chianti Classico which we loved at the tasting was available in a shop in NYC for $28.

La Massa. They only make 3 wines.










This wine is awesome. You can find it for about $20. You want the 2016 vintage.


Scalette. The private tasting that we had included all of their wines. it was an embarrassment of riches.










Lunch. Il ristoro di Lamolehttp://ristorodilamole.it/en/ The place was amazing. Food just kept coming out. It was a late lunch as we arrived around 2pm. Not only did the food keep coming but so did the wine. We started with rose.
Beets with goat cheese.
The second wine.

Bruschetti.
Fresh truffles with onion pie.
Ravioli with fresh pears.
The third wine. A different Chianti Classico from the same producer as the previous wine.

Ricotta gnocchi with lima beans.
Biscotti with Vin Santo.
Other desserts.


The view.

Montefili.



This is a great wine.
The critics really love this wine. We thought it was too tannic at this stage.

A great wine.



Lemon tree.


Back to Florence.







This gelato shop on a side street near the Ponte Vecchio was staffed by 1 older woman. She explained that her son made the gelato. The gelato was the best we had in Florence and there is a gelato shop on every corner. You never know.

My wife was tired from the wine trip  so I went out looking for a dinner snack. I found this crowded little pizza joint. You order on a counter and you can have a pizza in box to go or a pizza on a piece of cardboard with plastic utensils to stay. My pizza was 6 Euros; the most expensive one was 8 Euros. It tasted as good as it looks.



Piazza Santo Spirito





Our stay in Florence ended. The next day we took a train to Rome. Florence was fun but the big tourist attractions are just too crowded to enjoy. The weather was cool and overcast which was probably a good thing since a few weeks later the weather became hot and humid.

Rome will be my next installment.

Miscellaneous 

It has been a poor growing season for my garden. My tomato plants have struggled. Lots of eggplants, string beans and cucumbers.

Complaint of the month-- Farmers market vendors seem to selling more and more non NJ produce at the  farmers markets. This is troubling. Vendors appear to have figured out that people will pay more for produce at a farmers market than at a supermarket. If these issues matter to you, ask the vendors where their produce come from. For more absurdity check out Costco's magazine that every month touts it farm to table program. Straight from farms in Mexico or anywhere in the world to your table. An amazing program.

Wines of the summer

Municipal  Winemakers https://www.municipalwinemakers.com/ continues to be a fav. They run great specials and have free shipping for orders over $100 and for some specials as well. They make a sparkling wine, Mubbly, which comes in 500ML bottles and they also make a sparkling Shirazz, which I have not tried yet. They make very different wines but we have never had a bad wine from them. They have goofy names for their wines but the product is  great.

If you like Champagne, WTSO has the best deals on Champagne. Philippe Prie Champagne and Nicolas Maillart Champagne regularly appear for prices from $24.99 to $27.99. If you buy 4 bottles shipping is free. When buying Champagne look for disgorgement dates so you know the non vintage bottling that you are buying. The Prie does not have a disgorgement date on the label.